Saturday, June 25, 2016

Day 53 (June 25) Heidelberg to Vilnius

About 3am I was awakened by the Flash and Crack of a full bore electrical storm.  It took a bit to fall back asleep, but the alarm at 6am came way too early.  We finalized our packing, said goodbye to Steven (another rider from Oregon) who was already up, and enjoyed the cool of a light rain. The TLS shuttle was 15 minutes early (and the same driver as we saw at the restaurant yesterday).  

About an hour later we were at the terminal where we checked our motorcycle gear into storage so we wouldn't need to pack it to the Baltic.  We checked our other luggage and made our way to the Gate A26.  At security, I must have triggered something as I received the pat down, full inspection of my backpack, and test of all bags and clothing for explosive material.  I think it must have been all of the electronics that triggered the inspections.  But I passed!

At the gate we purchased some food to eat and waited for our flight.  There was a lady from Las Vegas sitting next to us who was going to Lithuania on a museum tour and she was intrigued by our adventure.  I also posted a picture on Facebook and shortly received a reply from a church friend that her husband was  in the same airport waiting for his flight back to Seattle.  It's a small world!

I went up to the gate agent and inquired about seat availability, and the agent said the flight was oversold, but she put us on the list for jump seats (available only at the pilot's discretion).  Fortunately a couple seats became available and we were able to make the flight.  We already had a room reserved at the IBIS in Vilnius, so it was really good to make this flight which arrived around 2pm. We collected our luggage and made our way out of the terminal but didn't find any telephone kiosk with which to contact the hotel.  So I asked at the information desk, "How do we get the IBIS shuttle?"  She phoned the hotel for us and soon the van picked us up and whisked us to the IBIS Styles hotel.  We learned there that the shuttle would also drop us off and pick us up downtown.  So we signed up, quickly freshened up, and took the shuttle downtown to the main gate in the old city wall where we began our walk down the winding cobblestone street.  It took a bit to get our bearings using the tourist maps we were provided. But once we got that down, navigating the old city became easy.

We found a street side cafe to enjoy a light  Lithuanian appetizer and a cold drink (it was in the 80's and high humidity) before continuing our stroll down the promenade.  



The literal high point was to take a fernicular ride up to the tower remains of the ancient castle.  We then hiked up the circular stairway of the tower to take some pictures of the scenery and admire the views.  While we had a ticket to ride down the fernicular, we decided to walk it back down the rocky driveway.  We then wound our way back to the meeting point to relax for an hour before the shuttle picked us up.  I used that time to update my blog.

Our first impressions were that this is an easily walkable city with a lot of history.  It seems to be a cross roads of the Catholic, Greek and Russian Orthodox churches. It, of course, suffered under the Soviet occupation. I hope to learn more about that on Monday when I tour the KGB museum while Angela practices.  It's also clean and neat in the old town without a lot of little convenience stores. There is, however, a lot of ice cream for sale!

Day 52 (June 24) Heidelberg

After a very warm overnight sleep, we ate a relaxing continental breakfast at Knopf Tours.  This would be a laid back sort of day as the principal tasks were to wash the bike, repack our travelling luggage and put away the items that we leave behind in Heidelberg.  We also had the chance to chat with several other couples who are just starting their European adventures on their motorcycles.  One of the couples we met last year.  It's truly fun and enriching to compare travelling notes.  Also we saw off a couple of solo riders who were starting their adventure (Michael was heading to Zermatt and the rider from Texas was heading for Spain to escape the rain that was on his originally planned Northern route).



It was also time to purchase our flight tickets for tomorrow's flight to Vilnius.  I had a bit of a challenge getting that done as the WIFI router kept losing its signal.  But eventually, I succeeded.  Lunch was the leftover pizza from the night before.  We settled our lodging bill, arranged for a 7am shuttle pick up, and I  put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank, rode the bike to the local gas station to fill it up.  I came back and disconnected the battery.  The bike was now ready for storage.  I didn't change the oil as it only had 2,500 miles on it.

I took inventory of what we were leaving behind, packed the panniers, locked them, and we transported them downstairs to the long term storage area.  Next it was time to pack our motorcycle gear in its travelling duffel and pack the remainder of our clothes.

We walked into the village to get some more euros and check out the LIDL and ALDI grocery stores for the last time this trip.  We enjoy seeing what they offer in the way of general merchandise.  On the way back to Knopf Tours, we stopped at the same little Döner shop for a salad dinner which was quite good.  Our evening was spent hanging out with the other couples and sharing more stories and tips.  It was a fun time.  Clouds started rolling in and the temperature dropped, but it was still in excess of 80f.  Darkness led to trying to sleep, but it was so warm.  Fatigue eventually trumped the heat until . . .

Friday, June 24, 2016

Day 51 (June 23) Back to Heidelberg

We packed up our campsite, purchased some bread from the bakery truck, ate a light bread and cheese breakfast, and headed on off to Heidelberg via many terrific secondary roads.  Near the end of our ride there was a major detour that cost us 45 minutes for the detour.  And it was well in excess of 90 degrees for most of the day, so we made stops to cool off and wet ourselves down so the evaporation would do its magic.

We rolled into Knopf Tours around 6pm to a ready room.  I stripped off my riding clothes to get more comfortable and proceeded to install the replacement combination switch that I had picked up an hour earlier from a dealer (I pre-ordered the part 10 days earlier) along our route.



We then walked to a local restaurant and had a salad and pizza for dinner before retiring with no covers as the heat was oppressive.

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Day 50 (June 22) Fichtelberg


Once again we packed up and said our goodbyes to Gaila and made our way southwest on backroads (and more detours) towards Bayreuth where we hoped we would be able to camp for the first time this trip.  Finally it was getting warm!  We were pretty close to the Czech border at Hof where we stopped for a McRib lunch and WIFI.  

Motoring on, we reached the end of our GPS route outside Bayreuth where I put in a search for a campground and we found one I had previously researched.  So off we headed for another 20 miles or so to Fichtelberg to check it out.  We found the site up in the forest near done ski areas and it had electrical hookups, a lake, and nearby restaurants, yet it's really in the middle of nowhere.  



So we pitched our tent, did a load of laundry, and walked into the village for a very nice dinner.  We also got an order of cheese to go so we could have  some for breakfast when the bread truck comes by in the morning.  After dinner, we walked down to the very pretty lake before retiring for the night.

Day 49 (June 21) Grimma & Dresden


Today we were off the motorcycle for the day the first time in 2.5 weeks.  Gaila, our friend from Seattle who is helping start a castle motorcycle destination in Mutzchen took us on a tour of Grimma and a magnificant nearby castle at Wermsdorf before showing us the Motostay castle in Mutzchen.  The castle is really cool, but there is a lot of work needed to get it ready for guests.  

We then decided to drive to Dresden to tour the old city.  Most of Dresden was bombed extensively during WWII as it was a major defensive position against the Soviets.  One characteristic of the aged sandstone buildings is that they turn black.  So one can readily see the newer construction and reconstruction by the building colors.  The main Lutheran cathedral was totally flattened, but was recently in the past 20 years completely rebuilt and is quite pretty inside.  There's a mixture of the old and new stones in its rebuilding.  There were lots of tourists walking around the old city, but it wasn't crowded.



After our return to Grimma, we decided to walk downtown for dinner.  We were told that it was just a 15-20 minute walk.  No problem.  So off we headed.  50 minutes and 2.2 miles later we were in town ready to eat!  It was a lovely paved path through the fields, by a former textile factory dating to the turn of the 20th century, and over a very cool pedestrian bridge. Nothing much was open except for the restaurants.  We ended up eating in a Döner shop (our second favorite restaurant after McRibs at the golden arches, and it was very good. I paid for the meal with a 100€ note, but only received 30€ in change instead of 80€. I walked out of the restaurant and then realized what had happened.  So I went back and the clerk immediately realized what was wrong and the correct change was given.  A 100€ note isn't that common, but the 50€ is.  

So we then walked back the 2.2 miles to our lodging and spent time with Gaila.  Angela showed her tips on playing her ukulele and we chatted about traveling.  And all too soon, bedtime called, and another day was done.

Monday, June 20, 2016

Day 48 (June 20) Castles & Grimma

We checked out of the Panorama Hotel after another fine breakfast and headed for our first castle of the day Schloss Callenberg just outside of Coburg.  Since it was Monday, the museum at the castle was closed so we just hiked up to the castle from the parking lot. We took a few pictures and noted that we could easily see the Veste Coburg, the defensive castle we visited a few days ago.  After returning to our motorcycle, we motored on to the next castle: Veste Heldberg.    It, too, was closed so all we could do was hike up to it and take some exterior pictures. 

It was now time to point the bike towards Grimma, Germany which is a suburb of Leipzig some 260km (150 miles) away.  We have a friend there that we wanted to visit. For the entire day we wandered east and north through some terrific German backroads and more little villages.  One thing that was challenging especially when riding in the former East Germany was that we would come upon road construction that blocked the highway with no apparent sign of a detour route.  I got pretty good at finding detour routes even if they took us down little paved farm roads.  The crowning touch was encountering a blocked road less than a mile from our destination.  We rode through the blockage, miscrits that we are.

We enjoyed a nice dinner with our hostess, and then walked next door to visit the castle Döben which is pretty much in ruins.  Tomorrow we have a special castle visit and tour planned.  

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Day 47 (June 19) Bayreuth


For this Sunday castle trip, we chose to ride an hour to Bayreuth via the secondary roads and visit 3 castles in the home of all things Richard Wagner.  The ride down was wonderful through little villages and twisty forest covered roads.  At the primo castle in Bayreuth, Eremitage (Hermitage), we didn't quite know what to expect.  From the parking lot all we could see were hedges, but some of the signage gave us a clue to the treat we were about to experience.  

First here's a little history.  The Margrave Georg Wilhelm began construction of a pleasure pavilion in 1715 which became known as the Old Palace.  His son, Friederich, inherited the property and gifted the entire estate to his Prussian born wife, Wilhelmine.  She then constructed the magnificent New Palace and other items on the grounds.  She was only able to enjoy the New Palace for 9 years before she died.  He lived for a few years more.  For more information about the Eremitage, practice your Google  Foo.

We purchased tour tickets for the Old Palace, as it was the only way to see the inside.  While the tour was in German, I used a printed English guide that provided me some helpful information during the tour.  The entry into the Old Castle was deliberately designed to be the antithesis of a grand entrance.  One walks down a ramp and into a chamber where there is a very cool water fountain.  In fact for me, the coolest part was a candelabra suspended only by a jet of water!



The rest of the rooms are wonderfully restored, but once again I'll not bore the reader with a room by room description.

After the tour we walked the grounds and especially enjoyed the water fountain performances.  

For all of the castles that are compact, this one is notable for its sheer size and variety of features.

We rode back into town to get some lunch and to find the New and Old castles located there.  We parked the motorcycle near where we thought the Old Castle was located and went to find some lunch/dinner.  We settled on eating at a Döner shop, and it was good.  We then set out to find the Old Castle, but it's location eluded us until we realized from some signage that it had been destroyed in a fire near the end of WWII.  There is a statute of Maximillium that marks where the courtyard used to be.  We then walked to the New Castle and it was easy to find.  The Historic Opera House was nearby and we took a 45 minute little train ride around the city that was interesting.  Following an ice cream treat, it was time to gear up and head back to our hotel which was an hour away.  We wanted to see another castle (Plassenburg) but there simply was not enough time especially since it's one of the larger castles with at least 4 museums in it and we would be arriving there near closing time. 

After riding back to the hotel, we watched a bit of the European Dancing with the Stars TV program called 'Let's Dance'.  The routines were not as complicated as the American version but the judges were far more critical in their scoring.  Then it was time to watch the European soccor playoffs where France and Switzerland played to a 0-0 tie.

Tomorrow we visit two more castles while on our way to visit a friend from the States living up near Leipzig (about 4 hours away).  We'll spend the night there before turning back southwest towards Heidelberg where we need to be on Thursday.  I'm sure we'll find a castle or to on that ride as well.

Saturday, June 18, 2016

Day 46 (June 18) Rödenthal & Kronach

Today (Saturday) our focus was on seeing Rödenthal and its famous Hummel figurine factory plus a couple of castles in the area.

It was a short 1/2 hour ride there and we easily found the Hummel factory where we toured both the factory outlet store and the factory store. There were definitely lots of figurines to see! Angela has been enthralled with these figurines for years so this was a special stop for her.



The next castle on our list, Schloss Rosenau was nearby and we paid it a visit. It was a summer home for nobility and quite plain in presentation. We skipped the museum tour here, and ventured on to Kronach where we had one of the more grand castles to visit: Festung Rosenberg. This grand old defensive castle is poised high on a hill above the city and is reached by riding up a series of twisty and steep cobblestone streets. Then one hikes up the hill and through the second of three defensive walls. This wall is about 30 feet thick. 

We purchased castle tour and museum tour tickets for 8€ each. One cannot view the castle without doing the tour. We did a quick first visit to the museum before joining the 2 pm tour. The tour was conducted totally in German and Angela would give me highlights of the guide's comments. For me, there were two highlights to the tour. First was walking down into the inside of the 30 foot thick wall. Exiting that, we had a terrific view of the castle, and that was the second highlight. We then had a terrific late lunch/early dinner out on the patio at the castle restaurant. We followed that up with a return visit to the museum where the focus was on altar pieces, sculptures, and paintings. After our visit concluded just after 5 pm, we rode back to our hotel in just under an hour.

Tomorrow the plan is to ride southeast to Bayreuth for 4-5 castles in the area plus things Richard Wagner.  

Day 45 (June 17) Surprised by Joy in Coburg

Using the title from a CS Lewis book about his new found faith, we found ourselves surprised by joy in visiting Coburg.  First, our gas shortage was solved by finding a gas station there.  It had been surprising the previous day to not see any public gas stations in so many little villages.  We were down to 15 miles of range or about a 1/2 gallon of fuel.

Coburg is a scant 3 miles from our hotel, but never having been there, it took us a while to find a motorcycle parking spot, but persistence paid off when we found one right in the center of what we were looking to visit.  We then easily found the tourist information office and received a helpful city map with a self guided walking tour route and descriptions all done in English.  So we headed off on the tour.  The first stop at the old city hall was among the most stunning we have seen in our travels.  Schloss Ehrenburg was on the tour and it was also one of the castles we needed for our castle tour.  St. Moritz church (with its ornate alabaster carved altarpiece but otherwise plain in decor) was another worthy stop.  At the conclusion of the tour, we found the city's famous bratwurst sandwich in the town square and some gingerbread type cookies and a panini at another restaurant to round out lunch.


                                      Old City Hall

We caught the little train (cutely nicknamed the Gecko-Bahn) up to the fortress castle, Veste Coburg.  This is one huge defensive castle and highlights of our visit included a huge knife collection, a huge antique hunting rifle  exhibition, 2 rooms in which Martin Luther lived after he was excommunicated by the pope, lots of paintings and sculptures, a cool movie down in a dungeon room about Martin Luther, and a carriage collection. The audio guide was a bit frustrating to use, but in the end it helped to have it for the castle tour.  We spent most of the afternoon there and just before 5pm caught the next to last train back down the hill.  We found a little Döner shop near our motorcycle for a light dinner.  As I was gearing up to ride back to the hotel, Angela wandered across the street to see what was playing at the Landestheatre.  It was Barry Manilow's Cococabana musical.  Tickets were only 18€ each, so we decided to gafe a night out at the theatre.  Surprised by joy once again!

The performance was wonderful with most of the speaking parts in German, but most of the songs were in English.  We thoroughly enjoyed the show and rode back to the Panorama Hotel in the dark.

Tomorrow's plan is to visit Rödenthal with a special visit to the Hummel figurine factory as well as a castle or two.

Day 44 (June 16)Transition to Coburg


After another terrific breakfast it was time to pack up and leave our home for the past 3 nights.  We paid our bill and said our goodbyes to our hosts at Wohnen mit Hertz.  This was one of the best B&B's we've stayed at.  While our night's destination was only 45 minutes away, there were a few castles to see along the way.

Schloss Rentweinsdorf was right in the town of Rentweinsdorf and still occupied as was Schloss Eryichshof in Ebern.  Just up the hill from Schloss Erichshof were the ruins of Burgruine Rotenham. When this hand carved castle which is built into the sandstone was destroyed, a decree would not allow it to be rebuilt.  So the owners built the sumptuous castle down the hill that we just visited.

Burg Lichtenstein was at the end of a little country road outside of Pfarrweisach and is still occupied so we couldn't visit.

Burgruine Altenstein was hidden at
Maroldsweisach, and we took a few pictures there, but it was raining and that dampened our enthusiasm for hiking down the hill to see more.

The gem of the day was at Seßlach (Sesslach):  Schloss Geyersberg.  It's perched up on a tree filled hill above town and there is a little path to walk up to it or it can be reached by vehicle. It's still occupied and rentable for special events, so we couldn't go in.  We parked the bike next to the Rathaus and walked through the fully walled town with its cobblestone streets and half timbered houses, enjoyed some lunch to get out of the rain, and found a most helpful tourist information person.  Here we also found the official printed map of the castle route which would have been helpful earlier in the trip.  We also climbed one of the 3 remaining city towers and Angela did her best Rapunzel impersonation.  



While it was still raining, we plodded on to our hotel for the next 4 days, Hotel Panorama in Niederfüllbach which is about 3 miles outside of Coburg.  It was good to check in relatively early and begin to dry off after being in the rain most of the day.

We walked into town and found the local grocery store, Edeka, which is like a Fred Meyer along with some great chile at a local Cafe.  Did I mention we had been running low on fuel? The odometer now indicated less than 15 miles of range and we hadn't seen fuel in any of the little villages we had visited.  Would there be fuel in Coburg the next day?  Time would tell.

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Day 43 (June 15) Castle Searching near Bamburg

We awoke to enjoy another nice breakfast and headed out to find a number of castles in the area that are on the castle route that we are using.  The first was the Altenburg castle which is perched on a hill above Bamburg.  If the weather hadn't deteriorated so severely yesterday, we could have visited this castle in the afternoon.  In any event, the castle was free and we roamed the grounds.  They even had a 'falcon cam' showing a live feed of a falcon nest with two chicks.  There was a set of towers, so we climbed them for an even better view.  We also discovered the tribute to the castle bear.  As we were getting ready to leave, we noticed a tourist bus that would take us around the city of Bamberg and back to the castle in 45 minutes for 8.50€ each.  So we took it to get a different perspective on the city.  The driver was an American expat who married a German lady and stayed in Germany.  He wouldn't narrate the tour in English, but he had a marvelous German voice.

We then visited 8 more castles on the route, but I'll not bore the reader with the details except for two.

In the middle of the ride, we rode down this really twisty road into a geologically beautiful area with the little village of Pottenstein with its little castle perched high on the rock cliffs above it.  The village was so quaint and we walked the length of it to savor the sights.  We even found a small diversion dam that once served a mill.  We noted that the International Volksmarching convention would be held here in early July.  If for not other commitments we might be persuaded to stay for that event.  We even enjoyed a pizza and salad dinner at an Italian restaurant and ate the meal under an umbrella watching the traffic go by. And of course, the road out was also twisty.


The second castle was the  Castle Seehof in Memmelsdorf which is just outside Bamberg.  It was built by the prince-bishops of Bamberg and used as their retreat and hunting lodge and a way to get away from their subjects in Bamberg.  It's now owned by the government (previous owners were unable to maintain it) and the castle and grounds are simply elegant and it is open daily to the public for guided tours.




All of the above castles are located in an area called Franconian Switzerland for its resemblance to Switzerland.  Although we were gone the entire day, we traveled less than 100 miles!  And the weather pretty much held out for us all day.  If you want to read much more about these and other castles on the tour we are doing, go to http://www.castleroad.de.

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Day 42 (June 14) Bamberg

We were served a lovely breakfast at our B&B after which we suited up for the ride into Bamberg who's old city has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1993.  The GPS tried to lead us astray, but I beat it into submission by taking a totally different route through the countryside!  Bamberg was a zoo from a traffic standpoint, so we looped the city twice before pulling up on the sidewalk to park near to where we thought the tourist information office was found.  

The first major city icon we found was the historic Rathaus which is built on the end of a bridge support as the bishop wouldn't give the town any land for this public building.  We then found the tourist information office and rented an English walking tour guide for 8.50€ each.  While the concept seemed sound, the execution of the use of the device was very frustrating as one couldn't rewind or fast forward and the directions to the next viewing point were either too brief or depended on non existent signage.  We got lost more than several times and the only thing that saved us was having a paper map secured from our innkeeper.  I'll not bore you with all of the sights, but the best were the Rathaus, the Cathedral (the only Pope buried in Germany is entombed here along with Henry VI and his wife), and the Rose Garden.  During the tour we snagged an outside cafe lunch of typical German food.  

After returning the players, we wandered back to our bike and saw that there was a little river cruise leaving at 4pm and lasting 80 minutes.  So for 20€ total we took it.  It wasn't spectacular by any means but it was another way to see the town.  Back at the dock we walked across the street to our motorcycle and started putting our gear on as the sprinkles started.  We rode the 8 kilometers (4.8 miles) back to our lodging in driving rain and high winds.  For dinner we had some of our yoghurt and tea and bread since our lunches were so filling.  By about an hour after we got back to the B&B, the rain stopped and it's been dry since.  I worked on the route for tomorrow and also secured lodging a little further north near Coburg for Thursday through Sunday night.  We are staying with a friend near Leipzig on Monday night before heading back to Heidelberg by Thursday, 6/23.   

Monday, June 13, 2016

Day 41 (June 13) Transition to Pettstadt

After saying goodbye to our innkeeper in Freiensteinau, we rode to our next bed and breakfast the long way in intermittent rain showers.  The first leg was on the autobahn as we wanted to make time to Heppenheim so I could put in a parts order for the failed kill switch.  The service tech quickly took my order and we headed off to The Golden Arches for a quick lunch.  Yes, a McRib was the order of the day once again. While there we waited for an intense shower to pass over.  That would be the last one until later in the trip.

You might be asking why ride to Heppenheim?  The answer is simple:  it's the dealer that services the BMW motorcycles stored at Knopf Tours where ours is stored.

Leaving Heppenheim, we pretty much headed due east except that because I had selected 'Avoid Interstates' on the GPS routing options, we found ourselves on terrific little one and two lane roads that wandered all directions but primarily east. We came upon the Marbach dam which I photographed for the Dam Tour and shortly after that at the intersection of 47 and 27 we passed by the Marzipan factory.  Angela asked me to stop, but it took a 1/2 mile to reach a safe uturn location.  The factory store is very cute and the candy is delicious but I really can't eat it.  It's sugar and almonds and made into about any shape imaginable.  Since it was her birthday, I picked out a special heart shaped treat for her.



And then the monsoon hit.  Before we could get out of the parking lot we were drenched.  I could see that the storm was moving away from our intended direction, so we motored on through numerous little villages and on twisty little roads until we finally reached our B&B (Wohnen mit Hertz) where we were warmly greeted around 5 pm and the motorcycle got its own garage.

After freshening up, we walked into town to explore and get some dinner.  Dinner was found at the local tavern, and it was really good!  The waiter even gave our tip to the cook and she was very appreciative!

We walked back to the B&B and spent a quiet evening together in our room.  Should it be castles or Bamberg tomorrow?  Oh Bamberg is a castle town and on our list. Decisions, decisions.  Time will tell.

 



Sunday, June 12, 2016

Day 41 (June 12) Waiting out the Rain in Freiensteinau

This Sunday we woke up to steady rain and a forecast that initially didn't seem promising. We lounged around watching wave after wave of rain pass through the little village. Just when we would think it would be letting up and we'd get ready to leave, the showers would return.  Finally around 2:30pm the skies seemed to clear up and we geared up and headed out.  We wanted to visit Devil's Cave and take in at Eugenspiegel a two person guitar band who would be singing 60's and 70's American tribute songs.  On the way we were finally able to photograph the mystery animals. The cave was wonderful and we had a great English speaking guide for just the two of us.  Again no photos could be taken inside the limestone cave.  

 

Adjoining the cave was the outdoor concert venue.  So walked in and got an outdoor seat at a picnic table and ordered our food which was a BBQ'd steak and a salad and the famous fried potatoes.  We shared the salad and potatoes.  The group started performing songs from artists ranging from Eric Clapton to Simon & Garfunkle, BeeGee's, Eagles, and more.  Their English diction was quite good, but I couldn't understand much between songs.

After the concert was over, we rode back to our lodging in Freiensteinau  just in time for more rain.  Germany was playing Ukraine in the European Cup so we watched it (no final score as of this writing but Germany leads 1-0 and appears more aggressive in their play).

Tomorrow we begin a new adventure riding backroads to historic castles to the east towards Prague.

Day 40 (June 11) Steinau

It was very nice to not have to get up to make the breakfast time as we did at the Altenburg hotel.  We had provisioned up the night before so we made our own continental breakfast at our leisure before heading off on the motorcycle to Hanau where we secured the same spot in the center of town to park (free of course).  We returned to the Bros. Grimm house and museum where we toured them.  There was a temporary exhibition of space items because of Werner von Braun's connection to the area plus lots of Grimm Bros. related items. Unfortunately no photos were permitted in either museum.  As we were leaving the area, we met some Americans who were visiting the area as their grandfather had come here.  We later met them for a very enjoyable lunch after we walked around the town in search of historical items (not really hard to find!).

Lunch was wonderful and we discussed travelling, language, jobs (some former) and many other topics.  We parted ways with them so we could visit the tourist information office and attend a Puss 'n Boots performance at the Marionette Theatre.  After the performance we wanted to tour the city, but it started raining. So we ducked into the Steinau castle and did a self-guided tour which included a wonderful Bros. Grimm section.  Our tour also included a guided kitchen tour plus a self guided climb up the 146 steps of the two towers.  The view at the top was spectacular!  By now the rain had abated, so we continued our walk around the old part of town following a city map.  A high point was finding a store front with colored Grimm Bros. Fairy Tale characters.  

This completed our visit to Steinau. It was definitely one of the richest Bros. Grimm cities on the Deutche Märchen Strasse.  And it would be our last city on this portion of our trip. I probably learned more about the Bros. Grimm than Angela as she knew more from the start.  The big takeaway for me was their contribution and enfluence on the codification of the German language.  I had originally thought fairy tales were their major contribution.



We rode back to our lodging for a light supper and skipped eating out as our lunch meal was so large.

Now it was time to turn another corner on our trip.  We chatted about what we might do next and settled on a continued ride on German backroads.  Only this time it would be in search of castles, not that they are hard to find with some 25,000 remaining in Germany. 

There is a route called 'die bergenstrasse' (the castle road) which leads the traveller on a backroads route to 70 historic castles between Mannheim and Prague which is pretty much just east of where we are now. We can't do all of them, but we'll intercept them about a third of the way from the start and do as many as we can in our remaining time. It'll be more history to learn and absorb.  The astute reader will see the comparison of this route with the fairy tale route and many of the rides I do in the states (Dam Tour, Tour of Honor, Oregon Airport Tour, BMR, and more).

So, Monday we will head out on the new adventure for a little over a week before starting  our final adventure which will take us to the Baltic and choral music.

Friday, June 10, 2016

Day 38 (June 9) A Rest Day

Today we took a day of rest with no seeking out of Bros. Grimm items.  But as a good motorcyclist, we rode into Kassel and visited two motorcycle shops (Louis' & Polo).  Both focus on apparel but also stock other items. We each bought some headbands at Louis'.  After those visits, we went to the nearby Natural History Museum for a short visit.  At the senior price of 2.50€ each it was worth it.  They had some nice dinosaur skeletons and the current exhibit was on animals that man uses or enjoys.  

After that visit we walked across the street for a bite to eat.  Never have we felt so unwelcome in a coffee shop until the male proprietor left and a lady took over serving us.  The fellow had omitted my item from the order, but the lady fixed that up.

Back at our hotel, we walked to dinner at a Turkish dönar shop, and it was terrific and inexpensive.  I wish we would have found it sooner.

While at dinner we reached the decision it was time to move on.  That night we did a bit of research and determined that Steinau would be the last stop on the Grimm Bros. portion of our trip.  So in the morning after breakfast, we'd pack up and mosey on down the road.  We do have a nagging motorcycle issue to deal with: the kill switch which is combined with the starter switch has broken.  It's an easy fix with a pretty expensive replacement part. As long as the start button doesn't fall off, all should be good until I can get to our dealer in Heppenheim next week.  In the meantime we're looking forward to a good weekend in Steinau. I found a 50€/night Gasthaus near Steinau, and we'll check it out tomorrow.

Day 33 (June 4) Kassel

Today was not a big day for miles.  We rode to Kassel to see the Brothers Grimm Museum which is now housed in a new building.  Getting to the building turned out to be a bit of a challenge due to blocked streets and road construction.  The museum was fabulous!  It took about 2 hours to see it.





We then rode to the Herkules monument which was very impressive perched on its hilltop location.  It's been there from before the time of the Bros. Grimm!  While the man made waterfalls were not operating due to ongoing repairs they were impressive as well and the big screen video of them in the visitor center was terrific.






After our ride back to the hotel, we walked up to the town center for the little international festival they were having.  A singing group Dark Vatter was singing German country western songs in the local dialect.  We also met some Americans who were there visiting some friends.  Following a pizza dinner at the Italian restaurant, we walked back home and retired.

Day 34 (June 5) Return to Hanau

Today (Sunday) turned out to be a long day in the saddle.  After breakfast we rode to Hanau to see the play Rapunzel which was being performed in the ampitheatre on the grounds of the Phillipsrühe castle.  I had the GPS route us there on non-autobahn roads and the ride was shorter than on the autobahn by 40 kilometers  and just a bit longer in time.  But it was so much more interesting.

Before the play, we had fried cheese for lunch at a local tavern and visited another castle.  The play was interesting although I did not understand a word.  




We then visited the Phillipsrühe castle to see the museum with particular interest on the Bros. Grimm exhibit and the paper theatre exhibit.  



Our GPS then routed us back home on a different set of back roads.  In Asfeld we had a quick salad for dinner before finishing the ride back to the hotel.  At the hotel, I tipped the bike over on the slanted incline with no damage to us or the bike, just my pride!  The hotel's cook saw it happen and helped me right it.

We then unwound and retired for the night.  It had been a long day!

Day 33 (June 4) Kassel


Today was not a big day for miles.  We rode to Kassel to see the Brothers Grimm Museum which is now housed in a new building.  Getting to the building turned out to be a bit of a challenge due to blocked streets and road construction.  The museum was fabulous!  It took about 2 hours to see it.


We then rode to the Herkules monument which was very impressive perched on its hilltop location.  It's been there from before the time of the Bros. Grimm!  While the man made waterfalls were not operating due to ongoing repairs they were impressive as well and the big screen video of them in the visitor center was terrific.


After our ride back to the hotel, we walked up to the town center for the little international festival they were having.  A singing group Dark Vatter was singing German country western songs in the local dialect.  We also met some Americans who were there visiting some friends.  Following a pizza dinner at the Italian restaurant, we walked back home and retired.

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Day 37 (June 8) As Far as Ebergötzen

Well, you can pinch me again as the riding today was once again wonderful.  Our goal was to reach Ebergötzen which is the town devoted to Max and Moritz.  Along the way there were two towns that reportedly had fairy tale parks and one of those towns was not on the current version of our map.

So after breakfast I plugged the cities into a route on my Montana GPS, we loaded up and headed out.  In a neighboring village, we found a Märchen museum, but once again it's only open on Sunday afternoons.  Back on our route it was time to marvel at the fields of grain that are starting to turn yellow, listen to the throaty throb of the mighty R1200GS twin, and twist our way through quaint little German villages.  Most of today's route was on new roads to us.

Our first stop in Hessich Lichtenau yielded one picture of Mother Hulda and we headed off to Bad Sooden Allendorf.  The tourist information office there was very hard to find but we did find the Grenzmuseum on our own which is devoted to memorializing the border wall.  It had a good collection of military memorabilia from both sides and a preserved section of the wall, towers, and fencing plus lots of displays about the wall and how it affected German life.  If the arbitrary border went through a building, the Soviets tore it down.  Farmers were separated from their fields and families were separated.  It was a sad time in their history.  We left the museum and went back into town to find the TI office and eventually found it in the center of town.  We learned the location of the Sunday Grimm Bros play and enjoyed one of the best smoked salmon salads we've ever had at place called Cheers!

The next two cities had the best fairy tale parks of the trip.  The first one in Mackenrode is not on the current fairy tale map, but needs to be.  The second, in Heilbad Heiligenstadt, was hard to find and we had to ride on some pedestrian walkways to reach it (just call us hooligans) but so worth it.

Our last stop after a harrowing experience of riding on some unmarked freshly chip sealed road was at a small museum in Ebergötzen which was closed, but we got pictures of Max and Moritz as well as a nice antique waterwheel and the European Bread museum before heading for our hotel via the autobahn.  We got home around 8pm and had salad for dinner.

Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Day 36 (June 7) Sababurg & More

Some days I need to be pinched and this was one of them. The riding today to the northeast was unbelievably good through farm fields, forests, up and down twisty mountain roads and through many little villages. At times I thought we were riding in the Big Money Rally as we were were constantly looking for Grimm Bros. fairy tale articles, and we had limited info about their exact location. Some were simply missing. But we snagged Rapunzel, Snow White, Sleeping Beauty, the Goose and Girl, and Puss 'n Boots plus this simply amazing collection of miniature castles at der Mühlenplatz before riding home in about an hour retracing our outgoing route.



Day 35 (June 6) Alsfeld

Today (Mon) was devoted to heading into the land of Rotkäppchen (Little Red Riding Hood).  While travelling, Monday's are my least favorite days as generally all museums are closed.  Today was no exception.  They were all closed. However, in Alsfeld the tourist information office was open.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

When we arrived in Alsfeld after a nice ride south from Niedenstein, we found a parking spot and began to remove our motorcycle clothes.  A policeman came up to us and asked if we had a parking permit to which we had to answer, "No".  We then asked where could we park the motorcycle (generally in Europe they can be parked anywhere), and he said they didn't have specific motorcycle parking areas, but we might be able to find something up near the church.  We thanked him, re-geared up and rode a few hundred yards to the church where we found a spot to park.  It was about 100 yards from the tourist information office.  Score!

At the tourist information office we picked up a walking guide that would lead us on a one hour tour of town taking us from place to place where each numbered place was marked with a placard written in German and English.  In all there were 38 stops.

One of the cooler stops was at a fountain in from of a house labelled 'Funk Family' which is our youngest daughter's married name.  Another cool stop was at the birthplace of Dr. George Kober who served at Kamiah during the Nez Perce wars.  He went on to head the medical school at George Washington University and was a key researcher in infectious diseases ( before the end of the 1800's).

The most striking building was the Rathaus which appeared to be built up on stilts to provide for a farmer's market underneath.  We then enjoyed some inexpensive Chinese food at a local restaurant.  

After lunch we toured the local church which was quite plain inside, and then suited up in the 80°f weather in order to ride to the next three cities associated with fairy tales:  Schwalmstadt, Knüwald, and Efze.  The museum was closed in the first city, and the others were only tangentally related to the Grimm's so we did drive throughs before returning to our hotel.  We did note that the grass crops were starting to be cut.  Soon we were back at our hotel where we had pizza for dinner before retiring for the night.  But first, one last food picture from lunch:.

Day 34 (June 5) Return to Hanau


Today (Sunday) turned out to be a long day in the saddle.  After breakfast we rode to Hanau to see the play Rapunzel which was being performed in the ampitheatre on the grounds of the Phillipsrühe castle.  I had the GPS route us there on non-autobahn roads and the ride was shorter than on the autobahn by 40 kilometers  and just a bit longer in time.  But it was so much more interesting.

Before the play, we had fried cheese for lunch at a local tavern and visited another castle.  The play was interesting although I did not understand a word.  

We then visited the Phillipsrühe castle to see the museum with particular interest on the Bros. Grimm exhibit and the paper theatre exhibit.  Our GPS then routed us back home on a different set of back roads.  In Alsfeld we had a quick salad for dinner before finishing the ride back to the hotel.  At the hotel, I tipped the bike over on the slanted incline with no damage to us or the bike, just my pride!  The hotel's cook saw it happen and helped me right it.

We then unwound and retired for the night.  It had been a long day!

Day 33 (June 4) Kassel


Today was not a big day for miles.  We rode to Kassel to see the Brothers Grimm Museum which is now housed in a new building.  Getting to the building turned out to be a bit of a challenge due to blocked streets and road construction.  The museum was fabulous!  It took about 2 hours to see it.




We then rode to the Herkules monument which was very impressive perched on its hilltop location.  It's been there from before the time of the Bros. Grimm!  While the man made waterfalls were not operating due to ongoing repairs they were impressive as well and the big screen video of them in the visitor center was terrific.

After our ride back to the hotel, we walked up to the town center for the little international festival they were having.  A singing group Dark Vatter was singing German country western songs in the local dialect.  We also met some Americans who were there visiting some friends.  Following a pizza dinner at the Italian restaurant, we walked back home and retired.

Monday, June 6, 2016

Day 31 (June 2) Niedenstein - 2

The two faces of adventure were still around today. I woke up early and saw that the maps had downloaded overnight. That was the good news. The bad news was that I still needed to create the map files and transfer them to the GPS. I started the process and we left to go on a morning adventure to explore the town and hike up to the tower.

Niedenstein is situated on the side of a hill and was one of the cities from which the Bros. Grimm collected their stories. We hiked up through the center of town to the Rathaus (city hall). From there the path departed up the hill to the tower. It was a steady hilly and twisty path upwards which eventually yielded some gorgeous views. At the top was a very cool chair from which to enjoy the view. But there was more. The tower was open and we climbed the internal winding stairs to the observation level where there was a 360° view.
Hiking down the maintain was much easier and we wandered our way through the local streets and found an antique Jewish cemetery as well as a swimming pool and Noah's Ark preschool.

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Day 32 (June 3) Niedenstein - 3


Today was to be our first loop touring day retracing our steps from the previous day only in a clockwise direction. The weather forecast was not looking promising, but we really needed to get out and snag some of these Brothers Grimm sites on the Fairy Tale Tour (FTT).  After a nice continental breakfast that's part of our room arrangement, we geared up and headed for Gudensberg where after a little searching we found the lovely town park which is home to a cute little fairytale stage.

From there it was a short ride to Fritzlar which still has a walled old city.  In the parking lot, a kind lady gave us her parking pass which we displayed on the rear license plate (we probably didn't need it as motorcycles generally park for free anywhere).  As we walked through the wall gate, it was like we were transported back in time.  The ancient cathedral was a focal point, but there were dozens of classic timber framed houses some of which were terribly out of square due to settling.  We hooked up with a local tour guide and stayed with her until the cathedral, but decided to see the remainder of the city on our own.  We still paid her, and stayed inside the cathedral (this town has maintained its state of being a strong Catholic community for many centuries) in an effort to let the rain subside after which we went back to the TI office where a helpful clerk showed us some important things to see and we also purchased a detailed guide to the event we are doing.  It has lots of detailed info about each town along the route.  After wandering the main square admiring all the various timber frame buildings, we made our way back to the motorcycle.

Bad Wildungen was our next stop.  It's perched on a hilltop which made the riding a bit challenging at times.  We parked in a motorcycle space in a hillside garage and walked through town in search of the TI office.  We found it and acquired some more helpful information before visiting a shop devoted to the event and having a fish lunch.  On our walk back to the bike, we visited the cathedral which is now a Protestant church but has over the centuries flip flopped between being used as a Catholic and a Protestant church.  It has a very nice and old mural on the altar that depicted various biblical accounts.  Otherwise the church was very plain inside.

Our next two stops at Waldeck were high points of the day.  The first stop was at the famous Edersea dam which was breached by the British in May, 1943 and rebuilt before the end of the war.  At the point where we parked our bike, we had sone pleasant conversation with some Dutch Harley Davidson riders who were attending a nearby Treffen (camp out).  There were hundreds of riders attending the event from what we could see as we rode by it.


After visiting the dam and walking over the formerly breached section, we headed up the twisty road to the Waldeck Castle.  The police had radar traps set up probably due to the HD Treffen down the road.  After we parked at the Castle, we hiked up to the observation area where we snapped a few pictures.  The museum there is a prison museum, so we didn't bother to visit.  We did enjoy a refreshing drink in the restaurant overlooking the lake.  




We continued our ride to Wolfingen where we stopped at an Aldi to provision up.  While waiting at the bike I could see a big storm coming in.  Before Angela got out of the store, the clouds unloaded, and everything got drenched.  When she got out of the store she had to put everything wet on.  Fortunately our path of travel was away from the storm, and the outer garments had a chance to dry.  Back at the hotel, we spread out the wet clothes to dry on the heat registers and prepared a little snack.  Unfortunately it was not enough, so we went downstairs to the restaurant for a small bite to eat before retiring for the evening.

Thursday, June 2, 2016

Day 30 (June 1) Niedenstein


Adventure can both be found and can find you! Today was a mixture of both.  After our continental breakfast at Knopf Tours, we packed our meager belongings that would be travelling with us on the motorcycle and put the bulk of our belongings in short term storage at Knopf Tours.  We said our goodbyes to the three fellow riders who were either departing today or in a few days.  And we were off!

Today our route to Hanau would be by the autobaum so that we could make significantly better time.  Just north of Heidelberg we made our only refueling stop.  It was quick and we were back on our way.  Soon it began to drizzle, but that turned into full fledged rain!  We didn't stop as there was no covered areas to adjust our clothing.  By the time we reached Hanau I was pretty wet.  We found the town square and then looked for parking.  I pulled into a parking garage but the ticket machine wouldn't print a ticket despite the help of the driver behind us.  We were trapped between the security gate and a lady trying to get in to park her card behind me.  Finally the garage attendent remotely released the gate and we entered and parked in the garage despite the admonition to not park in there.

After covering and locking the bike we walked to the main square where we found to the statue of the brothers Grimm along with a very active Farmer's market.  





It then took a bit of looking to find the Tourist Information office.  It was surprising the number of official people who didn't know where it was given that it had moved.  We were able to get Sunday afternoon tickets for Rapunzel.  We grabbed a quick lunch from one of the food trucks and the wursts were great.  One of the bigger adventures of the day was to find the parking garage where we left our bike.  Eventually Angela's sense of direction prevailed and we suited up and headed for Niedenstein, again by the autobahn.  Portions of th trip were miserable due the drizzle and rain.  About an hour from Niedenstein we took a break at a BK which allowed the rain to stop.  The rest of the ride into Niedenstein was terrific and when we arrived I knew immediately it would be a hit with  Angela due to the decor and location in the little village.  Then when we saw the room with a terrace balcony there was further little doubt.



After we unpacked, it was time for some schnitzel in the little restaurant downstairs.  Angela was able to help a Bulgarian/Canadian with the German menu.  





After dinner the adventure found me!

I was working with my Netbook and GPS, and received an error message that my GPS maps were corrupt (it might have been an explanation for the problems I experienced a couple days earlier).  So I pressed the button to fix it and whoosh my European map files vanished from my GPS!  This was not a good sign.  So I started the process of downloading the map files from Garmin which literally takes over 4 hours using the hotel's WIFI connection.  So we went to bed hoping the download would complete on its own.  Would it?  Stay tuned.